Friday, September 6, 2019

Southward, Ho!

Sunset in Ulukhaktok
I'm writing this from the beautiful hamlet of Ulukhaktok N.W.T., the final stop on this year's voyage through the Northwest Passage. Later this afternoon, I'll be getting on the first of several flights that will take me to Kugluktuk, Yellowknife, Vancouver, Boston, and finally home to Rhode Island! The people here have been very friendly and welcoming, and we were lucky that one of my fellow expedition team members had brought some caribou meat that she'd picked up in Cambridge Bay, so we had a lovely final dinner last evening. In just a few days, all the members of the expedition team I worked with will be at their respective homes, though some of us a longer journey ahead than I do -- one to South Africa! -- and the sense of adventure we shared will become just photographs and memories.

We were able to stop at just one Franklin-related spot -- Beechey Island, which I was glad to visit, as last year ice conditions prevented any landings there -- but we did manage to follow his original route through Peel Sound, which was a treat. And, when the news of Parks Canada's new below-decks video from HMS Terror reached us, it was a special thrill to be able to share it "hot off the press" to a shipboard audience.

The Passage was busy this year -- more ships than before, if my informal count is correct -- including old veterans like the Bremen and newer vessels such as the Roald Amundsen and the new Fram. The interest in the natural beauty, land and sea mammals, birds -- and, of course with the ice itself -- is running high, as is the fascination with the Franklin story.  There was some lingering ice, some from last year, but most vessels were able to manage to find a track through, with very minimal support from icebreakers. One must always take the ice seriously, though -- another expedition cruise ship in Svalbard was trapped in rapidly-encroaching ice, and its passengers had to be rescued (the ship itself was freed not long after).

Over the next few weeks, I'll be posting highlights from my trip, especially our historical sites and community visits, with some reflections on this ever-changing, ever-constant part of the world. But just now, I'm very happy to be on my way back. As the late, great Stan Rogers put it:

How then am I so different from the first men through this way? 
Like them, I left a settled life, I threw it all away. 
To seek a Northwest Passage at the call of many men 
To find there but the road back home again . . .


  1. Could it be possible that the area where Ulukhaktok is today was visited by Collinson in his search for Franklin?

    1. I'm on my flight home so don't have access to my books, but I'm fairly sure Collinson didn't head up that way. However, his wintering site aboard HMS Enterprise was very near the modern hamlet of Cambridge Bay.

  2. "....but we did manage to follow his original route through Peel Sound, which was a treat."

    Even with all of our modern maritime technology and the modest arctic warming underway, it still staggers me to appreciate that voyages like yours down Peel Sound/Victoria Strait are now possible, in a waterway which in Franklin's day was simply impossible at least four years out of five, and lethal to attempt in the fifth.

    Looking forward to the highlights of your tour.